INTRODUCTION
The common name comes from the fact that these crickets often
enter houses where they can survive indefinitely. Having been introduced from
Europe
, this species is found throughout the
United States
but is a pest primarily east of the
Rocky Mountains
.
RECOGNITION
Adults about ¾-7/8” (18-22 mm) long, Color light yellowish
brown with 3 dark crossbands on head. Antennae threadlike, longer than body. Wings lay flat on the back. Cerci long, feelerlike. Hind
leg tibial spines short, stout, non-movable. Tarsi 3-segmented. Adult female with long tubelike oviposter (egg laying structure) located at tip of abdomen
and between cerci.
Nymphs
look like adults except smaller, and lack wings and an ovipositor
(females).
SIMILAR
GROUPS
(1) Field crickets (Gryllus spp.) lack crossbands on top of
head. (2) Cave/camel/stone
crickets (Gryllacriddidae) with humpbacked appearance, wingless,
antennae touch or almost touch at base, hind femora do not extend
beyond tip of abdomen. (4) Mole crickets (Gryllotalpidae) with front legs
broad and spadelike, antennae much shorter than body length.
(5) Earwigs (order Dermaptera) with forcepslike cerci.
DAMAGE
House crickets typically surface feed, leaving the surface roughened
from pulling or picking the fibers loose while feeding. Their feeding sometimes results in an irregular matted
network over the surface, or if the infestation is heavy, large
areas of the fabric may be eaten out. Mandible marks along the chewed edges are often
visible but only with magnification. Such marks are much less than 1/32”/1mm wide, not in
pairs, and with little or no tearing. Fecal stains are absent but with fecal pellets on or
about the damaged materials. The larger fecal pellets are about 1/16”-1/8”
(2-2.5 mm) long and about 1/32” (1mm) wide, with the pellets
almost or entirely lacking longitudinal ridges. No hairs are on or about the damaged materials.
BIOLOGY
Outdoors, the overwintering eggs hatch in late spring and adults
appear in late summer, with only 1 generation per year. When raised under ideal conditions, females lay an average
of 728 eggs. The nymphs
go through 7-8 instars which require an average of about 56
days for males and 53 days for females. Indoors, females deposit an average of 104 eggs (range
40-70) at room temperature. Their eggs are placed singly in crevices, such as behind
baseboards and other dark places.
HABITS
During warm weather, house crickets typically live outdoors
and especially in garbage dumps. With the approach of cold weather, they seek sheltered
places such as sheds and houses.
These
crickets are nocturnal or active at night and usually hide in
dark warm places during the day. Their presence is indicated by the male’s chirping
which is done by rubbing their front wings together. His “calling song” serves to attract females.
Outside,
they are often attracted to electric lights in large numbers,
sometimes by thousands, and rest on vertical surfaces such as
light poles and house walls. Outside, they feed on plants and dead or live
insects, including crickets.
They
often enter homes seeking moisture. When these crickets enter homes, many kinds of clothing
and even carpets can be damaged. Favorite fabrics include wool, cotton, silk
and synthetics (particularly acetate, vicose, and triacetate). Clothes soiled with perspiration are especially
attractive to crickets. They
eat out large areas of fabrics as opposed to the small holes
typical of clothes moths.
CONTROL
Cricket control starts outdoors with the reduction or elimination
of moist harborage near the structure by mowing lawns, weeding
plant beds, removing woodpiles etc. Since they are attracted to lights, change outdoor lighting
to less-attractive yellow bulbs or sodium vapor lamps. Seal possible points of entry such as around
windows and doors, holes in masonry, add doorsweeps, and screen
windows, doors, etc.
Baits
are effective when applied as a band between the structure and
peripheral harborages or indoors. Microencapsulated or wettable powder formulations are
particularly effective in the moist areas that crickets prefer. Mechanical removal with a vacuum works well. Crack and crevice treatment of possible entry points
may reduce invasion or may be required indoors for established
infestations.